Warm spell notwithstanding, we know that winter is on its way. In full preparation for the inevitable, our September Style Guide is on hand covering all things bespoke overcoats. Read the full guide here or visit our website to book an overcoat consultation with one of our tailors in Savile Row or The City.
Embracing the half price food offer at Sager & Wilde’s newest opening, Mission, in Bethnal Green (offer valid until 14th September).
The Culpeper - A proper London gastropub in E1, with a varying menu dependent on what’s growing on their roof garden.
Meatopia. A full on celebration of all things meat, drink, fire and music, happening this weekend at London’s Tobacco Dock.
Real ales at The Rake in Borough Market.
Mexican spirits and cocktails at El Nivel in Covent Garden
Dark ales, organic lager and listed urinals (!) at The Princess Louise pub in Holborn.
Art Deco Fair at Eltham Palace, 13th & 14th Sept.
Open House London 2014, 20th & 21st Sept.
St Katherine’s Docks Classic Boat Festival, 13th &14th Sept.
Constable: The Making of a Master, at the V&A.
Churchill’s Iceman: The True Story of Geoffrey Pyke: Genius, Fugitive, Spy, by Henry Hemming.
Vintage Menswear: A Collection from the Vintage Showroom.
Soviet Space Dogs, with text by Olesya Turkina.
We will be bringing all things groomswear to The National Wedding Show at London’s Earls Court, 26th - 28th September. You can buy tickets for the event here.
We’ll also be helping to bring the countryside to town at The Country Life Fair, Fulham Palace, SW6, on the 27th & 28th Sept. With country pursuits, cooking, interiors and sports aplenty, you can buy your tickets here, quoting code CTD14.
The overcoat is sometimes seen as a merely utilitarian garment, but with the right approach, it is easily transformed into an impeccable addition to even the most modest of wardrobes.
A beautiful bespoke overcoat should swathe you in style with the arrival of autumn offering a barrier of warmth from the cold. Ideally, you should mix this practical approach with an element of style, to give you comfort and confidence in wearing this additional layer.
Differing fashions notwithstanding, the general rule for a classic modern overcoat is that it should be knee length and weigh at least 4lbs (for a man of normal stature). Single breasted overcoats tend to be classic, double breasted are more formal. Lapels can be peak or notched, with the sleeves always to cover your suit sleeve and shirt cuffs.
Pure wool makes an ideal cloth choice and in general, the heavier the cloth the better, as with weight comes durability and greater wear. Fully milled worsted is an ideal choice, keeping you warm and offering great durability. Dugdale Brothers, among our most popular cloth merchants, recommend a 25oz cloth to face the coldest of winters. This weight also has the added advantage of being more water repellant than most, taking a longer time for the rain to penetrate, and therefore saturate, a garment.
Traditional colour choices tend to be navy and dark grey, with camel being a good alternative, especially if blended with a luxury fibre such as cashmere or vicugna, to produce a more prestigious garment. Wide ranges of alternative cloth choices are also available for the more adventurous dresser.
There are two main benefits to commissioning a bespoke overcoat. Firstly, and some would say most importantly, it gives you the opportunity to obtain exactly the right fit for your frame and stature. Ready-to-wear overcoats tend to have unwanted excesses of fabric in the chest, shoulder and sleeve, which can create an unsightly and bulky silhouette. Investing in a beautiful bespoke suit, then throwing an ill-fitting overcoat over the top is not the best approach.
Secondly, is the ability to achieve the exact look and feel that you want via the selection of cloth, lining and styling options. Talking through the process with your tailor gives the added advantage of a personal touch and finish to a garment that will be entirely unique and, with the right amount of care, ought to give you pleasure with every wear, for a very long time.
A small range of overcoat cloths are available to view on our website, where you can also get an idea of the design options that we offer. For further guidance, information or to book a consultation please contact us, as below.
Cad & The Dandy, City – 020 7283 1975
Cad & The Dandy, Savile Row – 020 7434 4344
Posted by Gloria Mignosi, Customer Services (Savile Row)
‘In terms of fit, these are not only the best trousers I own, but also pleasingly the best trousers that we’ve achieved together as tailor and client’. Read the final installment of The Student Tailor’s ‘Grey Trouser Project’ - http://bit.ly/W64Hdo
A great email from a happy groom with some lovely photos to match. Thanks to Ian & Amy for sharing the details of their day with us. http://bit.ly/1pkSFd7
Can a Cad & The Dandy groom’s suit be upstaged by a wedding cake? Only when it’s been made by the winner of last year’s BBC series, The Great British Bake Off! See more images of the contenders in question, and make up your own mind, via the Love My Dress blog - http://bit.ly/1nxMBs4
Here’s our Savile Row customer service manager, Jorden, at the basted fitting stage of her next three piece suit, cut by head cutter, John Deboise, in the City (you can see him admiring his work, just behind Jorden in the first photo).
The suit is made up in a William Halstead 13oz blue tonic mohair and consists of a single breasted, one button, notch lapel jacket with cut away pockets and double vents, a single breasted 5 button waistcoat with pointed bottoms and a ‘u’ front, and high waisted trousers with double forward pleats, fish tail back, slant pockets and side adjusters. We’ll be posting images of the finished article soon, so watch this space!
In a nod to all things carnival, we present Holland & Sherry’s stand out Notting Hill bunch. Full of bright colours and distinctive patterns, the cloths are a perfect reflection of the colourful flamboyance that this weekend’s festivities promise.
We’re chuffed to have received this rather splendid pair of limited edition cufflinks today, courtesy of The Merchant Fox.
Made from an original WW1 British brass shell case, the L & R design is inspired by Fox Brothers’ puttees. Each pair of puttees were tagged with a Left and Right clip for ease of use. This unique design has been rescaled and crafted by a Master Silversmith into just 11 pairs. Available to buy via the Merchant Fox website - http://bit.ly/1rpwnZA
"You should work your socks off, but do so efficiently" - Some simple but sound advice from James, to all the entrepreneurs out there, via this article in MoneyWeek.
A client’s tailoring tale, from cloth to finished boating blazer - http://bit.ly/1umwjtI
It’s no secret that at this time of year, the waistcoat comes into its own. Whether for weddings, the office or a dressed up weekend look, the tailored waistcoat offers much in the way of versatility and style.
Capable of transcending dress codes and social situations, the waistcoat gives the scope for experimenting with layers whilst also retaining a stylish overall look. Summer layering enjoys the benefit of still looking smart without the need for a jacket. Winter sees the benefit of extra warmth when worn underneath a jacket.
Recent trends have seen the horseshoe waistcoat enjoying a revival but with double breasted, single breasted, shawl collars, wrap front, lapels, number of buttons, pockets, cloths and linings to chose from, this is a garment that can be created to strongly reflect your individual style and personality.
Bought as an independent garment or as part of a three piece suit, it is always worth considering the contrasting options a waistcoat can offer. Tweeds, corduroys and heavier weight flannels are good choices for the colder months while linens, light tweeds and light weight wools work better in summer. One can opt to select the same cloth as that of a trouser and/or jacket or one can go for a statement piece that serves to compliment and contrast with existing suits, jackets and trousers.
In general, there are few rules to follow in carrying off the waistcoat to its full potential. The fit should be impeccable. The length of a waistcoat should meet the top of your trouser or overlap where the trouser has a higher waist. A gap between the two is unsightly and loses the benefit of a more streamlined silhouette. Buttons should always be fastened. Over accessorising should be avoided – keep it simple and stylish.