In an arena where first impressions are vital, it’s best to keep your footwear smart and understated. As a general rule, let the quality do the talking. Black oxfords are a solid work-wear choice. Some punch details are acceptable but for a cleaner, sharper look, plain oxfords are best.
A chunky brogue or well proportioned chukka boot are both ideal footwear choices for casual situations. Dark brown or ox blood chukka boots, with dark laces, look great when paired with selvedge denim jeans and a tweed sports jacket. Alternatively, a pair of chestnut brown, chunky brogues work well with stone chinos and a classic navy blazer.
Tassel loafers or Chelsea boots are stylish enough to step out in, whilst also being hardy enough to take you through to the early hours, should the situation require it. Black tassel loafers look great with a pair of slim grey trousers and a crisp white shirt. Chelsea boots in dark brown or ox blood leather, with a highly polished toe, look extremely classy when teamed with dark blue jeans and a leather jacket.
If you’re investing in good quality footwear, follow these three golden rules to keep shoes and boots at their best.
1. Never wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. This allows the shoes time to dry out and will reduce the wear on the soles.
2. Always use shoe trees, inserting straight after each wear. The shoe trees will absorb any moisture and help to keep the shape of the shoe.
3. Polish regularly. Always start by brushing your shoes with a stuff brush as this will remove any surface dirt. Then apply a cream to the welt and upper, which will nourish the leather and help to stop it from cracking/splitting. After this has had time to soak in, apply a wax/polish. This will give the leather its waterproof qualities and enable you to shine your shoes. Once absorbed, give your shoes a good buffing with a soft bristled brush.
Cad & The Dandy, City – +44 (0)20 7283 1975
Cad & The Dandy, Savile Row – +44 (0)20 7434 4344
Posted by Dmitri Kyriakou, Tailoring Consultant.
Warm spell notwithstanding, we know that winter is on its way. In full preparation for the inevitable, our September Style Guide is on hand covering all things bespoke overcoats. Read the full guide here or visit our website to book an overcoat consultation with one of our tailors in Savile Row or The City.
Embracing the half price food offer at Sager & Wilde’s newest opening, Mission, in Bethnal Green (offer valid until 14th September).
The Culpeper - A proper London gastropub in E1, with a varying menu dependent on what’s growing on their roof garden.
Meatopia. A full on celebration of all things meat, drink, fire and music, happening this weekend at London’s Tobacco Dock.
Real ales at The Rake in Borough Market.
Mexican spirits and cocktails at El Nivel in Covent Garden
Dark ales, organic lager and listed urinals (!) at The Princess Louise pub in Holborn.
Art Deco Fair at Eltham Palace, 13th & 14th Sept.
Open House London 2014, 20th & 21st Sept.
St Katherine’s Docks Classic Boat Festival, 13th &14th Sept.
Constable: The Making of a Master, at the V&A.
Churchill’s Iceman: The True Story of Geoffrey Pyke: Genius, Fugitive, Spy, by Henry Hemming.
Vintage Menswear: A Collection from the Vintage Showroom.
Soviet Space Dogs, with text by Olesya Turkina.
We will be bringing all things groomswear to The National Wedding Show at London’s Earls Court, 26th - 28th September. You can buy tickets for the event here.
We’ll also be helping to bring the countryside to town at The Country Life Fair, Fulham Palace, SW6, on the 27th & 28th Sept. With country pursuits, cooking, interiors and sports aplenty, you can buy your tickets here, quoting code CTD14.
The overcoat is sometimes seen as a merely utilitarian garment, but with the right approach, it is easily transformed into an impeccable addition to even the most modest of wardrobes.
A beautiful bespoke overcoat should swathe you in style with the arrival of autumn offering a barrier of warmth from the cold. Ideally, you should mix this practical approach with an element of style, to give you comfort and confidence in wearing this additional layer.
Differing fashions notwithstanding, the general rule for a classic modern overcoat is that it should be knee length and weigh at least 4lbs (for a man of normal stature). Single breasted overcoats tend to be classic, double breasted are more formal. Lapels can be peak or notched, with the sleeves always to cover your suit sleeve and shirt cuffs.
Pure wool makes an ideal cloth choice and in general, the heavier the cloth the better, as with weight comes durability and greater wear. Fully milled worsted is an ideal choice, keeping you warm and offering great durability. Dugdale Brothers, among our most popular cloth merchants, recommend a 25oz cloth to face the coldest of winters. This weight also has the added advantage of being more water repellant than most, taking a longer time for the rain to penetrate, and therefore saturate, a garment.
Traditional colour choices tend to be navy and dark grey, with camel being a good alternative, especially if blended with a luxury fibre such as cashmere or vicugna, to produce a more prestigious garment. Wide ranges of alternative cloth choices are also available for the more adventurous dresser.
There are two main benefits to commissioning a bespoke overcoat. Firstly, and some would say most importantly, it gives you the opportunity to obtain exactly the right fit for your frame and stature. Ready-to-wear overcoats tend to have unwanted excesses of fabric in the chest, shoulder and sleeve, which can create an unsightly and bulky silhouette. Investing in a beautiful bespoke suit, then throwing an ill-fitting overcoat over the top is not the best approach.
Secondly, is the ability to achieve the exact look and feel that you want via the selection of cloth, lining and styling options. Talking through the process with your tailor gives the added advantage of a personal touch and finish to a garment that will be entirely unique and, with the right amount of care, ought to give you pleasure with every wear, for a very long time.
A small range of overcoat cloths are available to view on our website, where you can also get an idea of the design options that we offer. For further guidance, information or to book a consultation please contact us, as below.
Cad & The Dandy, City – 020 7283 1975
Cad & The Dandy, Savile Row – 020 7434 4344
Posted by Gloria Mignosi, Customer Services (Savile Row)
‘In terms of fit, these are not only the best trousers I own, but also pleasingly the best trousers that we’ve achieved together as tailor and client’. Read the final installment of The Student Tailor’s ‘Grey Trouser Project’ - http://bit.ly/W64Hdo
A great email from a happy groom with some lovely photos to match. Thanks to Ian & Amy for sharing the details of their day with us. http://bit.ly/1pkSFd7
Can a Cad & The Dandy groom’s suit be upstaged by a wedding cake? Only when it’s been made by the winner of last year’s BBC series, The Great British Bake Off! See more images of the contenders in question, and make up your own mind, via the Love My Dress blog - http://bit.ly/1nxMBs4