James talks watches, his wardrobe and his wish list in this month’s issue of Square Mile Magazine - http://bit.ly/1gefwNy
Fox’s lightweight flannels for some splendid spring and summer suits.
Boyds for British cuisine with a twist, in WC2
Luxury brunch at Villandry, St.James.
Tastes of the Loire Valley at the Green Man & French Horn.
Guinness, in honour of St Patrick’s Day, at The Harp in Covent Garden.
Hawksmoor, for perfect martinis, shaken not stirred (see Bond, below).
Bond in Motion at the London Film Museum.
William Kent – Designing Georgian Britain, at the V&A.
Noel Coward’s Blythe Spirit, at the Gielgud.
RCA Secret exhibition, for the chance to bag a masterpiece.
Mid Century Modern for the best in modern antiques for house and home, at Dulwich College.
Nosing around other people’s houses via The Great Indoors: At Home in the Modern British House, by Ben Highmore.
Lawrence in Arabia: War, Deceit, Imperial Folly and the Making of the Modern Middle East, by Scott Anderson.
The new Wildsmith Bloomsbury Oak loafer for luxury, slip on, spring wear.
Some Mulberry Luggage for this month’s NY trip.
Not everyone likes to wear a tie and there are definitely some occasions that call for less formality. In these situations one can bypass the tie altogether and opt for a pocket square to compliment a suit or jacket, made up in cotton, linen or silk.
Originally a look sported by more senior gentlemen, we are now seeing a younger generation of dapper dressers adopting it, reflecting a more contemporary approach. Pocket squares can be used to compliment the tone of your suit or jacket, or to create a striking contrast. Paisley prints and spots are very popular, current choices, with plain colours and stripes retaining a more conservative and traditional feel.
We have many clients requesting bespoke options, made up to match the lining of a suit or jacket. These tend to be more daring in their approach with varying themes from skull & crossbones, bright floral prints, peacocks and even tattoos! So whether a traditionalist or a trend setter, a pocket square is certain to add style and flair to any ensemble.
Of course, one can also always wear a pocket square with a tie, as our image examples show. Matching to a tie is an option but it’s better to compliment the shirt and tie overall. The more daring and dandy may opt for clashing patterns, colours and tones.
When considering a pocket square, it is also worth remembering that there are many ways to fold and present your pocket. These include straight, squared, ruffled, pointed and rounded. On that note, we’ll sign off with this step-by-step Wiki How guide to help you make the fold of your choice. http://www.wikihow.com/Fold-a-Pocket-Square
Some well dressed wedding advice, from our very own James Sleater, in The Telegraph online http://bit.ly/1hoptw3
Meanwhile on Savile Row….. an interview with one of our founders, James Sleater - http://bit.ly/1dIaaNV
Glorious watch feature in Square Mile Magazine’s Spring/Summer Style Special, shot on location at our Savile Row shop. Read the full article here - http://bit.ly/1j88LRq
Congratulations to Guy and his beautiful wife, looking very happy and incredibly stylish on their wedding day. We were honoured to be chosen to make Guy’s morning suit for the big occasion. He told us “I had LOADS of compliments on the day and I felt a million bucks when I put on the morning coat”. Thanks for the feedback, Guy. We wish you all the very best in your future together. #groomswear #wedding #morningsuit
Watch this!! We’ll be making an appearance on Jimmy Doherty & Jamie Oliver’s Friday Night Feast, tonight at 8pm on Channel 4. Look out for Castle Court, playing a bit part in the action, filmed by Fresh One Productions last summer.
We will mostly be sporting a selection of ties from our brand new Cad & the Dandy collection. A contemporary mix of classic plains, spots and patterns, this range has been carefully considered to compliment City suits, country tweeds, spring/summer weddings and everything in between. Available to buy in our City and Savile Row shops from the end of February.
Traditional British comfort food at The Holborn Dining Room
Jackson & Rye - American diner in Soho, helping to control our burger cravings in between our NY visits.
All manner of tasty ales at The Craft Beer Company in Clerkenwell.
Fine wines at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in Neals Yard.
Catching the tail end of Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 1980s at the V&A.
Pop Art’s founding father, Richard Hamilton at Tate Modern.
Only in England: Photographs by Tony Ray-Jones and Martin Parr at the Science Museum.
The National Wedding Show at London’s Olympia, 21st-23rd Feb.
Ping Pong Diplomacy - How the humble game of table tennis helped to end the Cold War.
Dickens’s Victorian London - Fascinating collection of photographs that sees London through the eyes of the great novelist.
The finest of umbrellas from James Smith & Sons, if it doesn’t stop raining.
A Brompton Bicycle, perfect for London commuting, if it ever stops raining.
Here at Cad & The Dandy, we go to great lengths to get the perfectly fitting suit. However, what is equally important, but often neglected, is the right choice of tie. One could argue that it’s just a tie but we say it is much more than that. A tie is a symbol of style, marking out the gentlemen from the boys.
In anticipation of the arrival of our new range of ties (available to buy at the end of February), we have put together a few simple guidelines on how to best choose a tie to compliment your suit and shirt. Of course, the dandiest among us may deviate from the rules, but in order to do so one must first learn the basics.
Most of the suits we sell are in shades of grey and navy. Some would say these are the most boring of the cloth choices available but they remain a sophisticated and smart choice as well as being the shades that best compliment most wearers.
Blending these two is always a safe bet – a grey suit with a navy tie and vice versa. Pattern and texture variations can be applied thereafter, depending on personal preference. In addition to these two, darker shades of purple, green and red also work well with navy and grey suits.
Once confident with the basics, one can diversify into more earthy colours, including burnt orange, mossy greens and muddy browns. Stronger primary colours can also be dabbled with here but bolder choices will require more consideration in relation to the overall look. If it looks like an eyesore, then it most probably is.
It is best to adhere to a maximum of 2 patterns when combining a suit, shirt and tie. A chalk stripe suit dressed with a spotted tie would require a plain shirt. A striped shirt would look best with a plain tie or one with a bold pattern on a much larger scale than the stripe of the shirt.
The rule of pattern usually when two patterns sit alongside each other, is that they should differ in scale and style: large check, soft paisley; wide stripes, small spots. Avoid wearing two of the same pattern, whatever the scale. Using this rule on scale or density of pattern can enable you to combine three or even four patterns (with the addition of a pocket handkerchief) but stick with two to start with, or even one.
The more comfortable you become with mixing your patterns the more important texture becomes. Ties can be woven, printed, knitted, made up using silks, satins and wool. This provides a lot of variation. Contrast any of these with your suit and tie and there are limitless possibilities available.
Making sure your ensemble is well put together doesn’t mean your look has to be boring. Lowering the contrasts in the garments you select accentuates the overall look rather than each individual item competing for attention with the next. At this point it’s also time to acknowledge that one should never, ever wear a novelty tie.
Top to Toe
It is always worth considering the range of other items worn on a daily basis that can compliment the basic three – suit, shirt and tie, suit and shirt. Pocket squares, socks, shoes, cravats, overcoats. As with the tie, start classic then gradually expand your repertoire.
Look and learn from those around you, both for what to do and what not to do. Most of all, enjoy. Dressing is an exercise in self expression and a tool for communicating beyond what you say. Making that all important strong first impression really does count so it’s worth starting your day with due care and consideration given to what you wear.
Buying a tailored suit for the first time can be a little daunting and understandably, the process often begins with many questions. The first of these is usually to establish the difference between the three types of suit construction that we offer. So, with this in mind we’ve put together a simple guide to clarify what each option has to offer.
The machine stitched option is our entry point suit, which combines quality and value for money. This is a process that is closest to the widely known made-to-measure suit but with so much more included.
Firstly, a unique paper pattern is cut for each customer, ensuring the delivery of a great fitting suit. On top of this, every suit is half canvassed to give shape to the chest - essential when creating the waisted silhouette of a classic English suit. We hand pad (stitch) the lapel to create an elegant soft roll, which brings life to the suit. We also insert the sleeve head by hand to create an elegant finish and ensure it is pitched correctly. With a pricing point starting at £550, our machine stitched suit is the ultimate entry level tailored suit option <
HALF HAND STITCHED
Our half hand stitched suits offer an entry into the world of luxury bespoke tailoring. Rather than being made on a production line, these suits are made by highly skilled coat makers. They stitch, finish and press the suit with your body shape in mind, resulting in cleaner looking, better fitting garments.
Like the machine stitched suit, this option also has a half canvass, but rather than being stitched by machine the chest is padded by hand, creating a web of stitches that build a curvature into the chest where a machine stitched suit would hang flat. This greatly improves shape, fit and the silhouette of the suit.
Finishing on the suit is done by hand, with a beautiful raised lapel buttonhole (rather than a flatter machine stitched one) and subtle hand stitching on the lapel, jacket edge and pockets. All of this ensures a suit that stands out from the crowd, at a cost of just £200 more than the machine stitched option.
BESPOKE SUITS: FULLY HAND STITCHED
Our fully hand stitched suits are what a true bespoke suit is meant to be. Offering the finest in construction, with a full floating canvass, basted fitting and detailed hand finishing, this is the ultimate suit option.
Every bespoke suit needs support in the forepart (front panels) to hold their shape. A plastic fusing is used in most ready to wear and many tailored suits, but a combination of linen and horse hair makes a canvass that really holds shape in the suit. Our fully hand stitched bespoke suits have a full-length canvas sewn into the jacket allowing the internals to move and the garment to sit better on the body whilst feeling more comfortable and breathable. This is how a true Savile Row suit is constructed.
After cutting the cloth we lightly stitch the jacket and trousers together into a shell of a suit, known as a “baste”. At the basted fitting there is an in-depth discussion with the tailor about the fit of the suit and how it can be tweaked to perfect the fit. Each suit is then pulled apart and re-cut before being finally made up. At this stage the existing paper pattern is updated to accurately recreate the fit for future purchases. Before the suit is complete, a final fitting is arranged for any last, minor alterations to be made.
Our highly skilled tailors are recruited into our bespoke division to deliver the best in hand tailoring and custom made suits. The internals are stitched by hand creating incredible shape and durability and all buttons holes (lapel and sleeve), top stitching and even the lining are sewn by hand for the ultimate in hand finishing.
This option gives the process and quality that should be demanded from a truly bespoke suit and all from just £950 (an addition of £400 to the basic machine stitched price).